Prep your piece well - ensure the surface is well cleaned. Dust and sanding residue will prevent adhesion.
Paint porosity, particularly with chalk and mineral type paints without a “built in topcoat” can reduce adhesion. It is recommended to seal your paint first to increase the surface for adhesion.
Ensure paint is fully dry before applying sealer, then ensure sealer has fully dried before applying transfer.
Seal the transfer with another coat of sealer, thin coats are preferable. It is recommended that you use a water based sealer.
When you unpack your transfer, you will notice a backing sheet, keep the 2 pieces together until you are ready to use your transfer. Apply masking tape bits to all ends of the 2 layers to keep your transfer together, while you fiddle with it.
As you cut and trim your transfer (if you need to), mask the 2 pieces together so they don’t uncurl while you are playing with them.
Burnishing is really important. After the transfer is down securely (clean dry hand to get all edges and wrinkles down), then do a thorough burnishing. This simply means taking a clean dry soft cloth and in circular motion with increasing pressure, buff until the transfer is really adhered down well.
This step is really important.
Once in a while, it happens, a transfer peels. With the high number of variables involved (type of paint, sealer, surface, weather, application, etc) there is room for the occasional failure to occur. If this happens, it can usually be repaired by using something to gently, every so delicately re-adhere the peeled bits down.
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IOD Mould can be used with many different mediums.
Air Dry Clay: The air dry clay will ‘shrink’ slightly as it dries, gaps and cracking may appear between moulds once it dries, this is part of the charm.
Air dry clay can be glued when still wet - this makes it ideal for curved or shaped projects. We use Jovi Air Dry clay - its cost effective and does a great job. You can find it here
A light dusting of cornflour or arrowroot powder, helps with the release of the clay.
Do not overfill the moulds, use a scrapper to level off the moulds
Alternative mediums can be used, such as hot glue guns (the fat glue sticks), casting resin and plaster of paris, really any medium that sets.
Casting Resin will give you finer details, however dries firm and not ideal for curved surfaces, but great for perfect firm castings and great for extra detail and those fine super tricky moulds - You can find the Casting Resin we use here
Gibb Plaster of Paris is another cost effective medium, however it is messier and perhaps more time consuming, as you need to allow the plaster to dry in the mould before it can be released from the mould
We use Tacky glue as this dries quickly and is recommended. PVA works well, allows you time to place mould in position, but not ideal for curved pieces as it slides while drying. You can find the Tacky Glue we use here
Use any paint product on the above mediums.
Watch this great video for more more tricks and tips:
Embellish your own wall tiles with these great moulds or add detail to a furniture like we have on this dresser.
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The back of the stamps become less sticky over time, a light spray of low tack adhesive glue will help stamps stick to a mounting board again.
Stamping 101
Masking (included with your stamp)
The purpose of masking is to create visual layers on your project without disrupting or muddying the original stamped image. The mask covers and protects the stamped image so that no impression is made on top of it with overlapping stamps. This keeps your designs crisp and clear.
Masking creates the impression of a foreground and a background on your projects.
You can make you own masks by stamping a piece of paper with the stamp you want to use and then cutting it out along the edge of the design. Or you can use the pre-cut reusable plastic masks included with our 2020 stamps releases. You just need to separate each mask from the sheet by gently separating along the perforated lines.
Before masking, you want to make sure your initial stamped image is dry otherwise you will smudge it when you lay the mask down. Unsealed surfaces are porous and will have a relatively quick drying time. But if you’re stamping on a sealed surface, you’ll want to wait longer to allow for adequate drying before masking.
To mask, simply line up the mask with the stamped design, laying it on top to protect the image. Then you can continue stamping the next layer.
When planning a project that uses masking, you need to think in reverse order. This means stamping what you want to be in ‘front,’ or in the foreground, first. Background, or images that appear in the under layers, are stamped last when you mask.
Other advanced techniques that you can use with stamps are the Batik technique, wet-on-wet flooding, dip pens and more. We show you how to do each one in detail in this tutorial.
This is a great video with Mask use as well:
For a visual of all of the above watch this great video on stamping.
Use stamps to make patterns in clay and finish with a paint wash over the top to bring out the pattern
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It is a beautiful rich paint pigmented design that you apply to your surface and it "embeds" or "inlays" itself into your wet paint or wet water based medium. After drying, the carrier paper is removed, leaving an authentic painted design and a buttery, almost leather-like surface on your piece.
Watch this great video clip by IOD to get a sense of the product. Below are detailed instructions as well as another helpful video.
This video clip by Lexi has a great chart which shows the other mediums you can use to apply the inlay to, if you did not want to apply it to a painted surface. Take a screen shot and save it for later.
Below are the full details from The Iron Orchid Design Creators themselves:
Basic Steps for Use
Step 1: Plan the layout of your designs for your surface.
Step 2: Using the grids on the backside of the inlay sheet, trim as needed and set aside. If you are using a repeat pattern and lining the pattern up continuously, then trim the excess margin on each sheet.
Step 3: On an appropriately prepared surface, apply a generous and even coat of mineral-based chalk-type paint. Work in small sections to manage the paint-drying window as you work, generally not larger than 12"x16".
Step 4: While the paint is still wet, lay the paint inlay sheet, design side down (grids are printed on the back for easy identification of front and back), into the wet paint, keeping it taut.
Step 5: Spritz lightly with an even mist of water. Using a smooth damp sponge, soft folded cloth, or the small IOD Silicone Paint Blade, pat down with even light pressure to make sure the design makes good contact with the painted surface. Avoid excessive moving or dragging of the Paint Inlay sheet once it is laid down, as this can cause blur or smear.
Step 6: Repeat steps 3-5 to complete your design, lining up your sections as appropriate. The gridlines can help to match pattern edges when needed.
Step 7: Allow the Inlay to dry to the touch. Drying times can vary anywhere from 10 minutes to one hour, depending upon conditions.
Step 8: When ready to remove the Paint Inlay sheets from your surface, spritz evenly with water, and allow 30 seconds to absorb; this helps the backing to release. Starting at one corner, gently pull the paper up, keeping it at a low angle. It should come up easily without tearing. If it does not, spritz a second time and wait a moment, then try again.
Step 9: If desired, you can use water to blend out or soften the design, because the pigment is still movable and active. You can even add additional colors.
Step 10: Once you’re happy with the Paint Inlay design, allow your project to fully dry. Dry time will vary depending on the thickness of the paint coats, how much water was used in the process, the room temperature, and weather conditions. If the surface is cold to the touch, it is not completely dry. To be sure, wait 24 hours.
Step 11: Now, it’s time to seal it.
There are a few different options for sealing:
And, as if once isn't enough, you can usually get a beautifully faded second impression, with the residual pigment on your 'leftover' Paint Inlay sheets. Depending on the techniques and colors you are using with your Paint Inlay, sometimes you can even get a third impression!
IMPORTANT NOTE: For best results with a basic application, use a chalk-type paint that does not contain polymers. (Polymer-based paints and topcoats can also be used, but the timing and results vary, so check out our tutorials for that and more special technique videos coming soon.)
Keep your Paint Inlays stored in the packaging at room temperature, in a dry area, until ready to use. Always handle your Paint Inlay sheets with care and keep them completely dry until ready to use.
After use, lay the sheet on a flat surface, pigment side up, and allow to dry completely. If you saved the protective tissue, use these between the saved inlay sheets.
Then you can put them back in the packaging until you’re ready to use for a second impression.
IOD PAINT INLAYS ON FABRIC
IOD Paint Inlays can be used on fabric with a quality fabric medium and, YES, you can get more than one impression even on fabric!
For this application, we used GAC 900 by Golden (affiliate link).
IMPORTANT NOTE: When using IOD Paint Inlays on fabric, the results will vary dramatically depending on the composition of the fabric, its texture, and the application process. Test on a small fabric sample. Using the Inlays on fabric is not an exact science - experiment and have fun, but keep an open mind!
To use IOD Paint Inlays on fabric WITHOUT painting the fabric first:
Step 1: Dilute the GAC medium to 50/50 GAC/WATER and put it in a spritzer bottle or a dish with a brush.
Step 2: Apply the mixture to your fabric.
Step 3: Apply the mixture to the face of your inlay. This is the side with the painted designs on it.
Step 4: Place the Inlay face down onto the wet fabric. The grid lines will be facing up at this point.
Step 5: Apply pressure using a variety of techniques depending on the look you’re trying to create. This could be rolling the back of the Inlay with a brayer, blunt tapping, covering it with a thin mount and then sliding a blunt object over it to create contact -- or any other creative way come up with. Again, this is a great place to experiment!
Step 6: Allow the fabric and the Inlay to dry (do not remove the Inlay from the fabric yet).
Step 7: Dampen as you would in the instructions for the traditional use of the Inlay and remove the carrier paper.
Step 8: Spritz the paint pattern with diluted GAC (50/50).
Step 9: Allow it to dry and cure for a minimum of 24 hours.
Step 10: Heat set with a dry iron (no moisture or you’ll reactive the paint).
To use IOD Paint Inlays on fabric when you paint the fabric first:
Step 1: Dilute the chalk-type paint to the consistency of cream.
Step 2: Mix a 50/50 ratio of GAC with diluted paint.
Step 3: Apply a coat of the paint/GAC mixture to the fabric with a brush.
Steps 4 through 10 are the same as above (without the painted background).
IMPORTANT NOTE: We always prefer cotton or high cotton blends for textile projects as they generally produce the best results. Different weaves of fabric will have varied results. For example, a soft cotton jersey tends to give a soft blurred effect, whereas a muslin type of weave will give a crisper image.
IOD PAINT INLAYS ON GLASS
IOD Paint Inlays can be used on glass using a clear medium that’s been formulated specifically for glass adhesion.
For this application, we used Dishwasher-Safe Mod Podge (affiliate link).
To use IOD Paint Inlays on Wavy Glass Projects
Step 1: Thoroughly clean the glass.
Step 2: Trim inlay and plan the composition with enough spent carrier paper to cover open areas.
Step 3: Coat the glass where you want to use the Paint Inlay with the clear medium. We used undiluted Dishwasher-Safe Mod Podge.
Step 4: Place the Inlay sheet face down (paint side down) and make good contact by rolling the back of the paper with a brayer.
Step 5: Coat the rest of your glass with the medium and apply a spent (used) carrier sheet. The purpose of this is to create a uniform texture on your glass which means no paint is transferred (that’s why you use a carrier sheet that’s completely spent.)
Step 6: Let all the Inlay sheets dry to the touch.
Step 7: Spritz with your medium and then wait a moment for it to saturate the paper. Carefully remove the Paint Inlay sheets.
Step 8: Allow your piece to dry thoroughly.
Step 9: Seal your project by using a fine mist spray bottle filled with the water/Mod Podge mixture. Allow it to fully dry and then apply a second coat of water-based sealer with a brush.
Q1. Can you seal the Paint Inlays with wax instead of a water-based topcoat?
Yes, you can seal with wax as well, but as always, product ingredients vary by manufacturer, and you should always test in an inconspicuous spot.
Q2. How long can you leave the sheets between applications? Can it be months?
Theoretically (based on ingredients), indefinitely. Just make sure you store them flat and in a dry, low-humidity environment.
Q3. My local stockist doesn’t carry chalk-type paint. Can I use the IOD Paint Inlays with other kinds of paint?
The IOD Paint Inlays were designed to work with chalk and mineral-type paints that do not contain significant amounts of polymer binder.
There is a very important working relationship between the paint and the inlay. The paint needs to release the inlay easily after it has completely dried, and been remoistened. You should not have to put a lot of tension on the inlay carrier to remove it, and certainly not enough to tear it.
The nature of polymer binders (acrylic for example), is to bind well, which makes them work against the inlay process. In our testing and development, this is evidenced by the carrier fibers that are left in the paint finish when used with some polymer-based paints.
HOWEVER, paint ingredients vary greatly by brand, and their performance with inlays varies as well. Generally speaking, some polymer-based furniture paints CAN be used with IOD Paint inlays, with a little extra care in the timing. The same goes for polymer-based clear topcoats.
With chalk and mineral-based paints that do not contain significant amounts of polymers, you have a long drying window (they can sit for days before removal without a problem).
With furniture paints that have significant polymer binders, you will want to check them and remove them as soon as they are dry to touch, maybe even while still cool from dampness. Know that there is also a likelihood that fibers can be left behind, though it’s often not significant enough to see without a loupe.
In our testing, latex paints did not work well with IOD Paint Inlays. Please consult with your local stockist as they can share their experience with the IOD Paint Inlays and their preferred brand of paint.
Q4. You mentioned the Inlay is "active until sealed”. Will the Inlay ever dry if not sealed?
The inlay dries quickly. In fact, you should wait until it’s fully dry before sealing, but it will always be active until sealed. Active meaning, it can be reactivated by water.
Q5. What's triggering the inlay to set when a water-based topcoat is applied? Or is it still active beneath the water-based sealer?
The sealing mechanism is physical more than chemical. There's no catalyst involved. Think of it the way a mineral-type paint is sealed and how that works. There's a combination of two things, penetration of the coating into the porous material and a barrier.
Q6. Why are we waiting for the paint to dry before removing the carrier sheet? Is it to capture/grab the inlay paint?
Yes, in a sense. When the paint dries, the bond between the paint coat and the paint on the inlay is stronger than the bond between the paint inlay and the carrier paper. It basically becomes one with the paint coat. It’s "inlaid" or "embedded.”
Q7. Do the Paint Inlay pads have to remain absolutely flat, or can they be slightly rolled on one end?
We *THINK* they can be rolled without damaging the Inlay. However, we recommend storing them flat as it’s easier to apply them when they’re not curling. Additionally, flat storage keeps the covers of the pad flat for restorage of the dry, used Inlay sheets.
Q8. When considering shipping and storage as with other IOD products, are they affected by heat and or cold? Are they more sensitive or more durable than the transfers?
In typical heat or cold environments, we believe they are more stable than current transfers. However, heavy moisture situations could affect them. Typical environmental humidity would not be a problem as unused/new Inlays are relatively protected by the cellophane wrapper.
Q9. Can we use a water-base topcoat in a spray or aerosol format instead of mixing water with a water-based sealer?
Yes. The dilution technique is just a hack that we like, but only one option. You can absolutely spray a liquid sealer full strength through a sprayer, or use an aerosol option.
Q10. Can we use a dryer to accelerate the drying process?
Yes. However, we prefer the drying mechanism of gentle air movement to heat. We use fans a lot, and because of the nature of the paint, much like mineral-based paint, it dries pretty quickly. We avoid drying tools that get very hot, as heat can compromise the stability of paint in general, and cause bubbling or even delaminating of furniture surfaces.
Q11. If I use this on my walls (painted wood panel), will I need to seal it or can I just leave it to dry with the regular paint?
Yes, you will need to seal it, unless you are going for an ongoing sort of evolving abstract work of art that includes drips and kid smudges and...
Q12. Will this work over mildew-resistant paint?
We don't know about the mildew-resistant paint, but since it's not chalk-type paint and probably is very polymer-based, it would likely work differently and need some fuss. If you want to use a mildew-resistant paint, we recommend you do the following:
Q13. To avoid repainting a piece, is it possible to use an adhesive like peel stop and lay the paint inlay on that? Or a glaze? Or Modge Podge? Or a water-based sealer? What about Clear Chalkboard paint?
See question #3. You can inlay it into clear topcoats, with special considerations for timing. Different brands of topcoats/sealers and polymer-based paints will be more forgiving with IOD Paint Inlays than others.
For example, some non-chalk-type paints and sealers will grab the heck out of the Inlay carrier sheet and won't let go if allowed to dry. Some will work fine as long as you remove as soon as it’s dry to the touch.
Timing is key when using polymer-based products with IOD Paint Inlays.
If you are still reading all this...well done!!!- You are committed! This will take you to our selection of Inlays to purchase. Good luck and be brave!
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